Detailed money merge account analysis

August 27th, 2008

Here you go. And I can present you this with a 100% guarantee. By the way, I jacked up the interest rate on the HELOC to 15% just to show you how little of an impact that the Interest rate makes when you use your income to offset the amount. You don’t seem to be arguing that point any more. Also this includes the $3500 fee. The same money all the way around. This means that everything will be paid off in the final month. Including the MMA fee and HELOC.

By the way, I was just wondering. We both agree that the avg. guy might have unexpected expenses at some time but man, if you had to pull out even a few thousand dollars here and there out of your savings. It would have a dramatic effect on the long term investment wouldn’t it. No more compounding interest on the money that’s not there.

This report illustrates the results that can be achieved by establishing a Money Merge Account. The accuracy of this report is consistent with the information supplied by you.

You have been pre-qualified for the MMA to decrease your scheduled interest by $157,740.74. By following the MMA program you are eligible to pay less interest than compared to a standard 30-year mortgage at 2.541% fixed.

Current Liabilities
Existing Debt (to be paid off) Balance Payments
Some Bank (1st Position) $200,000.00 $1,199.10
Money Merge Account $3,500.00 $0.00
Total Monthly Fixed Expenses $203,500.00 $1,199.10

Net Income
Employer Interval Amount
Monthly $25.00 - Here is your savings amount that I won’t even use.
ABC Corp Bi-Weekly $2,500.00
Total Monthly Net Income $5,025.00

Income Analysis
Total Monthly Net Income $5,025.00
Total Monthly Fixed Expenses -$1,199.10
Current Monthly Discretionary Income -$300.90 - again no extra $25 that you are using
Monthly Living Expenses
(bills, entertainment, spending money) $3,525.00

With the MMA your 1st mortgage and the above listed debts will be paid off without adjusting your living expenses in 12.7 years. (NOT 19.5)

Proposed Liability Structure
Balance Escrows Payment
Some Bank $200,000.00 $0.00 $1,199.10
Money Merge Account $3,500.00 $43.75
Total $203,500.00 $1,242.85
Monthly Payment Savings ($43.75) - Here he is loosing money (The reality is that he would offset the interest with his income and would probably pay less than $25 - the same amount you are putting in your savings. Lets just apply your $25 in savings to this HELOC interest. This sounds like we are on the same page to me.

Some Bank Money Merge Account
Current Balance $200,000.00
Note Rate 6
Remaining Term 360
Payment Amount (P+I) $1,199.10
Total Payment $1,199.10

Current Balance $3,500.00
Note Rate 15 - Wow, I’m not even playing fair with such a high interest amount am I?
Line Amount $12,000.00

Program Start Date 8/1/2007
Living Expenses $3,525.00

Money Merge Account Comparison
Final Payment Mos Paid Mos Saved Yrs Paid Yrs Saved Interest Paid Interest Saved
4/2020 152 208 12.7 17.3 $87,537.09 $157,740.74

Now lets see what we will have in our savings when we put our house payment and extra money we now have into a savings for the remaining term.

Starting Principal $0.00
Rate of Return 10
Num of Months 208
Mon Investment $1,500.00

Scenario 1
$831,417.24.
This is the potential cash accumulation you could have in the months saved on your mortgage with the MMA.

If the interest rate on the HELOC were closer to 9% it would have saved him another 3 months. Even with the HELOC interest being so high, 3 months isn’t such a big deal. That’s less than $3600 over the entire term.

It is the cancellation of compound interest that makes this work. Plain and simple. Just like you are such a proponent of earning compound interest on the long term, we show how to cancel the same interest effect off the mortgage.

I’m sure that I will be getting some flack for displaying an analysis on a forum but then again, if there is a 100% guarantee on this than I can feel confident that I haven’t misrepresented these numbers.

Oh, if you were to take your $325.10 a month and put it in your investment account for 30 years at 10% including your initial $3500, you would have $768,923.59. That is a difference of $62493.65 in my favor. If you had an emergency and heaven forbid had to pull out your $3500, you would only have 707,850.68. Wow, your $3500 cost you a lot in interest in the long term didn’t it. This is why people rarely see their investments grow like that (the ones that you like so much). However the MMA guy would have only had to take 3 additional months to pay off his house and HELOC. If I could put the difference of $59,000 or more in my pocket and be out of debt almost 7 years earlier than your free system, makes the $3500 fee a lot better sounding to me. That is a ROI of almost 1700%

6 month MMA user

June 16th, 2008

I did my homework on this product and the people involved before I tried it. I had several meetings with my Banker for the express purpose of him telling me why I shouldn’t do this. As it turned out he became even more excited than I did. The bank not only loved the product but realized a there was a lot of potential business for them.

That was nearly 6 months ago and the product has been nothing short of spectacular. The 3500.00 check I wrote was completely painless and I have much more than recouped the price of the software

Rate and cost

June 13th, 2008

There is a BIG difference between rate and cost. I totally understand the 10% rate on the index funds and the 5 or 6% rate on a mortgage and the spread. The point is that if you start saving today for the index funds, you have to save for a long long time before the amount you earn surpasses the cost of the mortgage. Some people don’t have that kind of time! That is why index funds aren’t always going to work for everyone.

All that the MMA program is doing is saying, “hey, instead of sitting with equity in your mortgage or earning modest gains in your investments, look what happens when we can leverage that equity and apply it directly to principal on your mortgage. It cancels huge amounts of interest RIGHT AWAY with out some of the risks that certain investment accounts have. This is an immediate thing that happens. A penny saved is a penny earned. That is interest and years of payments that will NEVER have to be paid EVER to the mortgage company because of your leveraged prepayment. Now, I know your saying OK but now I have to pay that 5000 (or what ever the amount is) back at a higher rate than my mortgage interest rate was. Well, again, there is a BIG difference between rate and cost. Remember, you owed the money anyway, your just trading the interest that you will pay on your mortgage for the interest that you will pay on the HELOC. Most of the payment on your mortgage is interest. Now you have a chance to flip that equation to your favor.
Even if you didn’t factor in your income to offset the amount that is owed on the HELOC, there is absolutely no way that 5k on a 9% HELOC is ever going to COST you the same in interest as what it just saved as a prepayment on your mortgage. That is why this program works the way it does. If you simply applied your $100 of discretionary income toward your mortgage like some people suggest, you would NEVER be able to get the same results that the MMA is going to give you because of the way it leverages that HELOC. Open up a simple mortgage amortization table and see what happens when you apply 500 and 5000 to the mortgage. Even if it took you a year to pay it off (which is not how the MMA works), just think of every payment that you will now make to your mortgage and how much more will be applied to the principal by prepaying a larger amount. You can NEVER catch up to the MMA person if you did this on your own because of the compounding effect alone)

Even if you only had $25 or $50 a month to throw at your mortgage, you would come out years ahead of the person that was going to do this on his/her own. Where does this program come up with discretionary income if you don’t have any? Simple, I think that you all missed it. Even if you have $0 in discretionary income it comes up with it two different ways:
1. By using the HELOC as your primary checking account you not only have the ability to reduce the amount of interest that you pay on the HELOC but the extra money that you don’t spend in the month automatically gets applied to the balance, thus reducing the loan amount, interest charge, and accelerating the payoff. This makes better use of your money as opposed to just sitting there in a checking or savings account earning little. Do you apply the extra $1.50 or $5.00 that is sitting in your checking account to principal on your loans at the end of the month? I doubt it.
If you didn’t apply your income toward the HELOC, the program still would work but it is obviously to your advantage to use the HELOC like a checking account. The MMA analysis is based off the worst case if you didn’t catch it. That is why they have the money back guarantee.

2. Many people consolidate some of their debts that they already have into the HELOC when they start. If their payment on a credit card was $150, then the MMA program uses this same amount to be applied to the payoff of the HELOC each and every month. When the HELOC gets paid down, the $150 automatically gets applied to the payoff of the mortgage because now the Software will tell the client when and how much to transfer from their HELOC. Again, it is based off that clients specific spending habits and is optimized/customized to give them the greatest performance and savings possible (math engines not some simple spreadsheet). If they never get their HELOC amount down then obviously they never see any advantage but as long as they allocate the same amount as they have been doing in the past, that won’t be an issue. Also, the software always lets the client know where they stand. That is why they say to clients that they don’t have to change their spending habits to make this work. They always had that payment before and now they will still have that payment.
You could call it trickery if you want but look at it this way, say a person has $10,000 in credit card debt and they make their minimum monthly payment of $300. It will take that person over 18 years to pay it off. Over $250 a month is going to go toward interest alone (depending on interest rate)! Now, put that same amount on the HELOC and offset the balance with your income. Not only is the interest rate less on the HELOC then the Credit Card, but it is also tax deductible. Instead of paying interest on the entire $10,000, the client is only responsible for the AVG Daily Balance. This is almost always a lot less than the COST of the debt that they were paying on because of the way amortized loans work to the banks advantage (longer the term, the more in interest they make) The HELOC is not amortized! Not only are they paying less interest but more of their $300 is being applied to principal. Now this same loan can be paid off in about 2 -3 years (not factoring in any extra amount they left in the HELOC on a monthly basis - remember them saying that their clients are ahead of schedule? Now you know why.). Now that same $300 is going to automatically be applied to their mortgage with the leveraging of the MMA software. Normally they would have to pay that Credit card payment for 16 additional years, now they can have that CC and their mortgage paid off without changing a thing in their finances in a lot less time. Add additional debts like school loans and auto loans, and the mortgage payoff accelerates even faster because now it has that money to work with as well. This is all controlled by the end user and can be changed at any time!

The client can always spend their money as they want but this is clearly not a scam, it simply uses the money that the client has and leverages it to their advantage.

If you need that EXTRA cash down the road you can always take it back from the line of credit but again, If I applied 500 to my mortgage, how much interest and time would it save me? (go back to the amortization table) Now by borrowing the 500 back from the line of credit if it is really needed, how much will it cost in interest? Very little when compared to the interest saved on the mortgage. (This is why you have to look at COST and not necessarily RATE) That is the purpose of the software! It constantly monitors each and every persons income, expenses, and rates INDIVIDUALLY and tells them precisely when and how much to transfer from the HELOC to the mortgage to give that person the MAXIMUM savings with the least amount of cost, even if they only have a few dollars extra a month! (Makes the most of your money instead of the Bank making the most of your money) To me this just makes great financial cents (misspelled intentionally).

Sorry this post was so long but it is simply math that makes this work. Not myth or SCAM. Yes, I think that $3500 is a lot but if it can save me thousands and years over what I can try to do on my own, then it is worth it to me. Why not cancel at least a huge bulk of that interest before you start throwing everything into index funds. At least that is what I plan on doing. Again, look at cost as well as rate. They both need to be looked at in the equation. This can be debated forever with everyone having great and valid points. These are personal choices, and that needs to be considered as well. It’s not who is right and who is wrong. I’m sure that some people thought that IRA’s were a scam years ago too! Look at the logic of the MMA principal. Its there but I just don’t think some of you understood it. Don’t get caught up in the little details. Those are all factored into the software, You’ll never figure it out. Let it do its job and all you have to do is the same things you’ve always done (With a little more knowledge as to what impact your spending habits have on your future, hopefully!).

Too expensive?

June 3rd, 2008

Just a comment about the MMA software. Personally I am stunned by the effectiveness of this system! I have been on the program only 5 months and it has more than paid for the fee in savings. In fact my analysis shows that I will save over 187,000 in interest on my mortgage. So is 3500.00 too espensive? You tell me.

HELOC

June 2nd, 2008

I am on the software (web-based) and it is the best thing financially that has ever happened to me and my husband. We now will be mortgage free in 9 years, 6 months. I signed up to be an agent so that I could tell other people how great this software is.
This program does not work in Texas because TX banking laws do not allow for the type of Home Equity Line of Credit (HELCO) that the Money Merge Account software needs to work. That’s my understanding anyhow.

I feel bad for your TX friend, but he should not have bought the software when he couldn’t get the type of HELOC needed in the first place. Everyone considering buying this software should get their HELOC in place first.

Money Merge Account on any income

May 27th, 2008

MMA will work with any income. It will work with any mortgage. There are a few things you need to qualify for it though:
1-positive cash flow. If you make $100 a month but spend $99 a month, MMA will work for you. Obviously, the more you make and the less you spend, the faster it works. There are ways to “create” positive cash flow. Ex: if your monthly expenses = your monthly income but you get paid weekly, you already have 2 weeks of pay as “extra cash” because some months you get 5 paydays. That also works if you get paid bi-weekly. It does not work if you get paid monthly or semi-monthly. Another way to create cash is to move your debt around. If you can consolidate your credit card debt onto your heloc, you have created positive cash in the amount of the monthly credit card payment. Does that make sense?
2-equity. We talked about this before. You need about 10% equity to “play with”.
3-ability to get the correct heloc. I think most lenders require a credit score around 620, but I’m not sure. The heloc has to be the right one though, or it won’t work.

As far as using a credit card, I don’t think it would be wise and here’s why. When you use a heloc to do this, any interest you pay is usually tax deductible and it isn’t on a credit card. So you can potentially recover some of that cost. Also, a heloc varies it’s rate according to prime, whereas a credit card still uses “universal default” which is where they can change their rate if you are a little late on ANY OTHER BILL - even if they offer you a fixed rate initially. Also, the late charges on a credit card are ridiculous, plus I don’t think they calculate interest in the same way. I don’t think they adjust the balance upon receipt of your payment several times throughout the month. I don’t think you have as much control over the balance as you do with a heloc.

MMA experience

May 27th, 2008

I want to share my MMA experience. When we first started on this program, we had a 1st mortgage ($950/month) and a fixed rate heloc ($550/month). We do not make a ton of money and with 2 kids these pmts were tight. We put everything extra we had onto the heloc to get that pmt down for some relief. At the start of MMA we had gotten the balance down to under 10K however, we cut everything out of our lives…no extra’s. We did still contribute to our other accounts (retirement, savings, rainy day) just on a much smaller level. We refi’d the heloc to qualify. MMA automatically took that pmt out of our budget. We gave the bank our entire income (less contributions) and they only wanted the interest, so we no longer felt that tightness. It took very little time to pay that off. We still owed the $, but it “paid itself” down in a sense because of where we put our $. We put down new carpet last year and charged it on a Lowe’s card at 0%. We were paying $150/month on that. Paid it off with the heloc and no longer had that pmt. Within several months we had paid all of our other debts off and were left with the mortgage and our regular bills. We did not have a lot of debt, so it may not go this quickly for some, but it was such a relief! At that point MMA started prompting us to transfer a large amt to our first. We had 28 years left on our mortgage and are now on track to pay it off in 8.75 years. That’s almost 20 years early!!! And we can verify everything by comparing our MMA to our mortgage statement. Plus, this is our second home and when we bought this we held onto our first home and turned it into a rental. Once this is paid, we can then pay off the rental on the same MMA. I see the light at the end of the tunnel and I am more focused and driven toward the end results than ever before. I can actually see progress and it is so motivating.

Money Merge software review

May 11th, 2008

I have the philosophy in life that generally people are smart and do the best they can.

The Money Merge software is a product of United First Financial, this software is, has, and will help many average homeowners save a ton interest on their mortgage.

There seams to be a debate over whether or not you can do this on your own or not. Let’s look at the design and the concept. The Money Merge Software uses mortgage products already in existence, i.e. a first mortgage (closed ended loan) and a home equity line (open ended loan). The concept is to run your entire cash flow through your home equity line and make large payments towards your first mortgage. This formula cancels out interest and knocks years off your ultimate payoff. Yes, in my opinion can you do this on your own, because anyone (with the proper credit) can access these mortgage products from the banking and mortgage industry.

I think the real question is, can you be as efficient on your own as the Money Merge software? So let’s imagine you have both a first mortgage and a home equity line in place, you start running all your cash flow through the home equity line. When do you send the first large payment to your first mortgage and how much do you send? How long do you wait to send the next large payment and how much is that one? Have you been as efficient as the Money Merge software? Now lets ad some real life variables in the mix. You have sent your first large payment towards your first mortgage and your transmission on your car goes out. You are running all your cash flow through your home equity line so you make another large payment to the transmission shop. How does this affect your overall picture and now how long should you wait to send the next large payment to your first mortgage with this new variable? Now you have an unexpected doctor bill etc, etc, etc. So yes you can do this on your own, but how much time and effort is needed? Have you been as effective as the software? The interest on the home equity line is normally higher than your first mortgage, so it is important from and efficiency stand point to move your funds at the optimal time and in the optimal amount.

Yes there are e-books that can assist you for $97.00 on the internet, and there are free spread sheets that can do some of the work, but in my opinion they can not replace the efficiencies of the software. Its like thinking because a typewriter can write a letter, you don’t need your computer and Microsoft Word. The computer coupled with the software gives you a lot more efficiencies. You can cut down a tree with a hand saw or a power saw they both work, but one is a lot faster and takes a lot less time and energy. United First Financial has spent millions of dollars on the development and deployment of this software and is continuing to spend millions on its future development.

Anyone can go on the internet and get a free operating system but you do not see very many people doing this, why? No support, no one to call if something goes wrong, and most other software programs you would buy may not be compatible, it is very risky and there is no support. So most of us don’t use free operating systems, we pay Microsoft or Apple for a operating system that has unique development and support included.

United First Financial is a company in good standing and has a strong track record. You not only get the software and all the updates for life, you get your own personal customer support representative who you can call anytime. You have an internet based software product that is accessible almost anywhere in the world that you can get an internet connection. That means you are not alone and have the expertise of the entire company working for you. You have a staff of highly evolved software developers that have built and are continuing to find efficiencies and build them in. You have version after version, and in each new version you have new features and more efficiencies. Let’s be honest, we all know that we get what we pay for in life. You can get a brand new $12,000.00 car or you can get a $60,000.00 car. They will both get you there, but one will get you there a lot faster, a lot safer, and in a lot more comfort than the other.

The 30 year mortgage was developed by the banking and mortgage industry to benefit them, not the average American homeowner. When change happens there are almost always skeptics, but the most valuable things in life in my opinion come from the unknown. This concept is not a scam it is just basic math, so whether you do it completely on your own, get a free spreadsheet, purchase an e-book, or get one of the software products now on the market, do it now as they all work! The question in my opinion is a question of efficiencies and support.

For most people their home will be the single most expensive purchase they make there entire life. Ninety seven percent (97%) of Americans retire at or below the poverty level. If you take all the mortgages in America that are held by people who have owned their homes for over ten years, they owe more now than ten years ago when they originally purchased their homes. Most American’s with a mortgage keep cashing out there equity and digging a deeper hole. This product works for the average guy and has been designed for simplicity. If you can get on the internet you can do this, it only takes a few minutes a month.

I strongly invite you to make a substantial change in your life and make a life altering change to your financial picture, do a free analysis with a competent United First agent, see how much money you can save in interest, and how many years you can shave off your mortgage. It won’t cost you a dime to have a free analysis done, but you can then have all the information you require to make a relaxed and informed decision. This is real money and it is your money!

Pay off your mortgage early and invest the savings or purchase more real estate, use the software to pay off the second property, do it again and again! Were will your mortgage balance be in 7-11 years? We all know what to do but 97% of Americans are not doing it

Albert Einstein once said that “the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results” Will you just keep sending that mortgage payment?

$3500 - too much?

May 9th, 2008

I bought this program… and I am about as cheap as they come. The most I have ever spent on an automobile is $3400. I paid $250 for the motorcyle I have driven for 18 years, $500 for my boat AND trailer, and my hang glider I got by trading in an old guitar.

I am also a sheep… as I have been paying my mortgage for almost 17 years and so have already paid the lionshare of the interest. This program is only going to save me about $48,000. in interest on the house I am in now.

That is a return on my investment of how much?

Now… could I do it myself?

Maybe.

First… Great news! I did not have to spend $100 on a book to explain the concept because United First Financial teaches the concept for free in their seminars. I had to listen several times and take notes… but I got it.

I figured there are two ways to do it without buying the software…

One - as a guessing game.
Since this is math… and not horseshoes or handgrenades, I discarded that option… as I realized a 7% margin of error (on this home) would cost me more than the software. For people who are saving $100K, $150K, etc., that margin of error gets much smaller.

Two - I could do the math.

I love math.

First… I had no ideal how to set up an excel spreadsheet so that I could do the math required. I figured that I could probably learn. That takes time. Then I would have to recalculate those numbers at least monthly, and I could not begin to guess how long that would take each month, month and month, every year, for the 6 more years it will take me to pay off my mortgage. SO… math… or… the beach… or sleeping late, or…?

I joined a gym years ago… only spent $450. Went 6 weeks. Quit.

Anyway… I discarded those two options and set about justifying paying $3500 for a software program to save $48,000.

Then I realized… I am going to be buying another home after this. Maybe two or three. So… since I can use this for those homes also, I started calculating how much it was going to cost me, per month, to use this program if I divided the $3500 cost by the number of months I would use it. I figured out it was going to be somewhere between $10 and $26 a month if I use it on this, and just one more house.

Since doing the math on my own (if I could learn how) would probably take me at least 1-3 hours per month… as opposed to using the software and taking 10-20 minutes, I realized that NOT using the software would mean that I was paying myself less than $10 an hour to do this job myself.

I pay my next door neighbors kid $15 an hour to work around my house. He is 14.

I pay $25 a month for my Blockbuster Movie Pass (I love Denzil).

Neither one of them is saving me a dime, paying off my mortgage, building equity or saving me time.

Then I realized I was an huge idiot and I wrote the check for $3500 out of my equity line.

Personal decision.

I use the software

May 9th, 2008

I am a homeowner who has been on this program for about 6 months and I just wanted to share my experience in case it may help anyone to make a final decision.

My husband and I both work full time, have 2 kids, mortgage pmt of $1100 per month, discretionary income was $200 per month. First thing we did was to consolidate our debt onto the line of credit (heloc) which freed up money to bump our discretionary income up to $850 per month. Next, we started charging everything we could on our credit card. That was gas, groceries, tv, cell phones, everything allowable; then paying the credit card in full each month with the heloc. We followed with removing our escrow from our mortgage and paying it outright; which lowered our mortgage pmt and freed up even more discretionary income. After doing all of this, we were amazed at how quickly all of that debt was gone. Our heloc was paid down within 3 months! Then the program prompted us to transfer about $3200 from our heloc to our primary mortgage as a principal only pmt. We are now very close to having that amt pd down and will be making another transfer in the next 5 weeks.

One thing that I haven’t heard anyone discuss is how much easier our finances are to handle now. I don’t spend near as much time sorting through and paying bills. It has simplified my financial situation. We apply our paychecks weekly and balance our MMA with our heloc statement monthly. I spend maybe 30 minutes per month on my bills and updating our MMA. That’s it! Everytime I add income or expenses into the MMA, I can see directly what effect it has on our payoff. I no longer charge stuff and make pmts on anything (credit cards, dept stores, home improvement, loans, etc).

Another really cool thing is that because we deposit our paychecks weekly, we don’t have a pmt due at the end of the month on the heloc. The bank adds interest onto the heloc and accepts our weekly deposits as our pmt. We get a statement in the mail monthly, but only use it to make sure that our MMA agrees with the bank.

In doing these things, we have paid down the principal balance of our primary mortgage by about $5000 in 6 months! That is amazing and I am very pleased with our $3500 investment. Not only have we cut a huge chunk in our mortgage, but we have also simplified our finances, and consolidated all of our other debt (which I’ll admit wasn’t extremely large to begin with which I think is why it was paid down so quickly). Not to mention that we had 28 years left on our mortgage and are now looking at 8.3 years to be not only mortgage free, but also completely debt free (including having the heloc paid in full).

I just want people to know that I am a homeowner, not an agent. The only thing I have to gain from posting this is the hope that it will help some people to experience the same sense of relief and freedom that I have experienced through this product.

Good luck everyone - I hope this post helps some of you.